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Enjoying
a real high among the spectacular hills on Hoy The hills of Hoy are a dominant landscape feature of many Orcadian scenes and have been regarded as special places by people for thousands of years. In Neolithic times, the hills were probably a significant focal point for the builders of Maeshowe, due to their prominence in the famous winter solstice solar alignment. These days, the hills are still valued by people, who come to enjoy the wild landscape, varied wildlife and the vital feeling of connection that binds it all. In 1983, the RSPB bought almost 4,000 hectares at the north of the island, which has been managed as a nature reserve ever since. With habitats as diverse as moorland, sea cliffs, ancient woodland and bog, it is no surprise that the reserve supports a huge variety of plants and animals. The importance of the site for wildlife has been recognised by designation as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and a Special Protection Area (SPA) and the reserve is also a candidate Special Area of Conservation (SAC) and is part of a National Scenic Area. So, what are the key wildlife species that make the reserve so special? Moorland The reserve is, of course, a huge draw to bird watchers, and the moorland supports many fascinating species. Up to six species of birds of prey nest here including kestrel and buzzard. Historically, the reserve was home to golden eagles and the impressive white-tailed eagle. Although white-tailed eagles are only recorded passing through on migration now, golden eagles nested on the reserve until 1982.
Today’s eagle-eyed visitor may be lucky enough to see a hunting hen harrier, with its graceful, buoyant flight; or a merlin, dashing headlong over the heather in pursuit of pipits. Peregrine falcons can also be seen teaching their young the hunting skills they will need to survive: a breathtaking vertical plummet at speeds of more than 100mph. Once witnessed it’s a sight you won’t forget. Waders, including curlew, snipe, redshank, lapwing and the charming common sandpiper nest on the reserve and take advantage of the rich surrounding farmland to find food. Another Hoy bird that often leaves a lasting impression is the bonxie (or great skua). Hoy holds by far the largest population of bonxies in Orkney at almost 2,000 pairs. Like the closely related arctic skua (which also nests on the island), bonxies are notoriously energetic defenders of their young and will attack any animal that ventures too close, as many visitors learn to their cost. Although bonxies are a common summer sight on the island, Hoy supports about 17 per cent of the world population and, so is very important in global terms. Look out for the colourful stonechat, while walking on the reserve. This small moorland bird is about the same size as a robin and the male is just as colourful, with orange breast, black head and a white collar. The moorland supports a huge range of other wildlife, as well as birds. Hoy is a fantastic place for plants. Three species of heather flower here, alongside carpets of the delicate heath spotted orchid. Look out for some fascinating insect-eating plants, such as butterwort and two species of sundew. These plants grow on boggy ground and trap insects to obtain the nutrients missing from the soil in these areas.
In late summer, while animals feast on moorland berries produced by blaeberry, crowberry, bearberry and alpine bearberry, the pretty purple flowers of devil’s bit scabious appear. This plant was used medicinally for a wide range of complaints, ranging from coughs to dandruff. In fact, it was considered so virtuous that its truncated tap-root is said to be the result of the devil biting its roots in an attempt to destroy the plant. A great variety of insect life can also be seen here if you look carefully. Hoy is the only island in Orkney where you can see grasshoppers. These energetic little insects are found in rough, grassy areas. Butterflies and moths are abundant through the summer months, from the delicate common blue butterfly to the impressive emperor moth. These moths start life as striking green caterpillars sporting pink polka dots - a disguise that makes them surprisingly difficult to spot, feeding on flowering heather. The insect builds a tough cocoon where it spends the winter. The colourful adult moths emerge in late April-May and fly in the daytime. An equally colourful moorland resident is the green tiger beetle. As the name suggests, these insects are a beautiful shade of metallic in the heather ‘jungle’. Their presence is an indicator of a healthy heathland. The warden works throughout the year on the hill ground. The summer months are the key survey season, when detailed records of the breeding birds are collected. The warden is also responsible for maintaining the footpaths: clearing out cross drains and repairing eroded sections. Hilltops/gulleys The most striking landscape features of the reserve were formed during the last Ice Age, when gigantic ice sheets covered Orkney. Evidence of conditions on the reserve during this period can be seen all around the reserve. This ice scraped over Hoy, carrying rocks and debris and shaping the rounded hills, steep sided (U-shaped) valleys and impressive bowl-shaped corries. On the hilltops, the alternate effects of frost and wind have produced wind stripes. Although the ice retreated about 10,000 years ago, the hill summits remain a harsh environment for living creatures. However, many species still thrive here. Mountain hares are often seen around the hills, particularly on slopes below the summits, and are especially striking in their white winter coats. The harsh climate on Hoy, described as hyperoceanic, allows a fascinating range of Arctic/Alpine plants to grow at about half the altitude at which they occur elsewhere in Scotland. The more adventurous visitor has the opportunity to see moss campion and purple saxifrage. Trees
The atmospheric woodland at Berriedale is the most northerly native wood in Britain and is also a remnant of the ancient woodland that covered most of Orkney as the last ice age relented. Downy birch, rowan, aspen, willows and hazel are found here, growing amid a sea of woodrush. This unique woodland habitat supports a wide range of wildlife relatively uncommon in Orkney, from breeding chaffinches and robins, to numerous insects and spiders. The warden collects tree seeds from Berriedale to grow trees that are then planted on the reserve to encourage the spread of this special native habitat. Sea cliffs The sea cliffs around the north west coast of the reserve offer an interesting insight into the geology of the island. Layers of old red sandstone are the building blocks for much of the famous Hoy scenery, and are clearly seen on the massive cliffs at St John’s Head. Geology is also key to, arguably the most famous Orcadian landmark - the Old Man of Hoy.
Plugs of volcanic basalt are found at several locations around the island and this hard rock can be clearly seen at the base of the Old Man, supporting the 137m sea stack. The extensive coastal cliffs provide nest sites for a range of breeding seabirds including fulmars, guillemots, razorbills, puffins and kittiwakes. The cliffs also offer a great vantage point to spot whales, dolphins and porpoises. The last two summers have seen killer whale pods attracted to the coast around Rackwick as they hunt for seals and fish. The warden maintains casual records of these species; however, the main focus of work in this area is maintaining the heavily-used footpath to the Old Man of Hoy. The RSPB is currently considering various options to upgrade the badly eroded sections of this path, to ensure that visitors can continue to enjoy this magnificent landmark while minimising damage to the ground. Lochans Another key habitat on the reserve is the extensive chain of tiny lochans. Hoy is a summer stronghold for the beautiful red-throated diver. These birds can live for more than 30 years, and often pair for life — listen for their haunting calls in spring, as pairs renew their bonds. Nesting divers, like many of the breeding birds here, are very sensitive and if disturbed may desert their eggs and chicks.
If you accidentally encounter a family group, you should move away quietly. An excellent place to spot divers, without fear of disturbing them, is from the footpath by the Sandy Loch, where birds regularly bathe. In the breeding season, the warden monitors the divers carefully and assists several local ornithologists who have been studying and protecting these birds for more than 30 years. The lochans attract six breeding species of dragonfly and damselfly, some of which are not seen elsewhere in Orkney. The most numerous of these is the large red damselfly, which can be seen between May and August. Burns Dragonflies are also found around the burns on the reserve and these are the only places in Orkney where you might catch a glimpse of the golden-ringed dragonfly. These magnificent insects, with striking black and yellow bands prefer fast flowing burns. They are fierce little hunters, worthy of the name ‘dragons’, as they dart around catching flies to eat on the wing. The burns are also a great place to see fish, including young brown trout and where there are fish, there are otters. There are frequently signs of otter activity on the reserve, although it is a rare treat to actually see one. People People have lived on Hoy for at least 5,000 years. There is evidence of Neolithic activity in several places around the island. The Dwarfie Stane is the only Neolithic rock-cut tomb in Britain. This giant boulder was hollowed out using hand-held stone tools around 5,000 years ago. More recent archaeological remains include an enclosed Bronze Age settlement that straddles the Whaness Burn. In addition to dwellings, the site shows evidence of possible fish traps and stock enclosures. This historical human connection is often a key factor in the lure of visitors to Hoy and many join a summer guided walk on the reserve to find out more.
Since April, 2000, the RSPB Hoy warden has been a combined post with the Hoy Ranger Service and ranger-led guided walks are now offered weekly between April and mid-September. This offers visitors a great opportunity to learn about the wildlife and history of this beautiful island, while enjoying its spectacular scenery. The ranger also works with local school groups to encourage the next generation to appreciate and enjoy the natural world around them. This spectacular island, with its divers, dragons and devil’s bit scabious is well worth exploring at any time of year: why not come and try the high life? Further info on wildlife/guided walks from Warden/Ranger, Ley House, Hoy, Orkney, KW16 3NJ. Tel: 01856 791298. |
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©
The Orcadian Limited, Hell's Half Acre, Hatston, Kirkwall, Orkney, Scotland
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