The Orcadian Features - North Hill and Noup are alive with birds

North Hill Reserve

Since 1976, the RSPB have been involved in the management of the North Hill Reserve on Papa Westray, as part of a joint agreement between the local graziers, Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH) and the RSPB.

The North Hill Reserve comprises a range of habitats including sea cliffs and small lochans. However, the majority of the reserve area is maritime heath. Indeed, the North Hill has one of the largest areas of maritime heath in the UK, with the importance of the habitat recognised by designation as a Site of Special Scientific Interest under UK law and a Special Protection Area under European legislation.

In recent years around 2,000 terns have chosen to breed on Papay's North Hill Reserve.

As you might expect, given this status, the maritime heath is a wonderful rich habitat, full of life. A diverse range of plant species are found on North Hill including several species of orchid, creeping willow, slender St John’s wort, butterwort and, of course, three species of heather. The charming native Scottish primrose is also found on the reserve and is easily observed during one of its two flowering periods (late April-May and late June-August).

As part of the management agreement, the reserve is grazed at low density, through the summer by cattle. This is a very effective way of maintaining the diversity of plant species on the heathland, and providing a mosaic of different plants favoured by the various breeding bird species.

The reserve supports an interesting range of bird species. The damp heathland is ideal for wading birds, with curlew, lapwing, oystercatcher, redshank, snipe and dunlin all breeding here. During spring and autumn, the reserve can be an exciting place for birdwatchers, with a great variety of species passing through on migration. Large flocks of purple sandpiper, turnstone, golden plover and other waders can be seen around the island at these times.

As autumn turns to winter, wildfowl numbers increase around the coast and it is possible to see large numbers of wigeon, teal and the impressive long-tailed duck. In late spring, the reserve is transformed with the influx of arctic skuas, bonxies and arctic terns as they gather to breed. The grace and aerial agility of the arctic tern is illustrated to breathtaking effect by the fascinating interaction between the terns and patrolling arctic skuas. As the terns return to the colony with small fish to feed their chicks arctic skuas move in, following each twist and turn of their quarry as they attempt to intimidate them into dropping their catch.

The Scottish primrose, primula scotica,can be observed on the North Hill Reserve during one of its two flowering periods, in late April-May and late June-August.

Of course, the chances of each individual tern successfully running this gauntlet are much improved by the size of the colony they form. In recent years, around 2000 terns have chosen to breed on North Hill, the majority in two huge colonies which offers excellent protection to the chicks: as anyone who has unwittingly entered a tern colony can testify, they vigorously defend their offspring! Visitors to the reserve are asked to observe the terns and skuas from a distance to avoid disturbance. This is primarily because the eggs and chicks are so well camouflaged that they are easily crushed, as well as the risk that they can become fatally chilled, if not incubated by the parents. In addition, it is a much more pleasant experience for the visitor. During the last decade, the terns have suffered numerous disastrous seasons, so it has been wonderful to witness their success this year. Over 1,500 young terns left the site this summer, as opposed to two last year!

On the precarious ledges of the sea cliffs, thousands of seabirds gather to breed each summer. Guillemots, razorbills, puffins, black guillemots, kittiwakes and fulmars are all easily observed by visitors to the fowl craig area of the reserve.

Both grey and common seals may be readily seen around the coast here, at various favoured locations. An exciting range of whales and dolphins also offer tantalising glimpses on occasion. This season, a pod of five orcas was spotted from a local fishing boat off the north coast of the island.

For many visitors, their first experience of the North Hill Reserve is as part of a guided walk with the warden around the nature trail. The walks (run three times a week throughout the summer) are part of a community-run package tour known as the ‘Peedie Package’. This allows visitors to see the amazing archaeological sites, as well as, a chance to enjoy the spectacle of the summer seabird colonies, and is extremely popular. Some people prefer to enjoy a walk around the reserve at their own pace, and it is possible to walk around the whole coast, staying close to the shore to avoid disturbing breeding birds. The new trail guide leaflets (available on Papay) provide all the information required to enjoy observing the varied wildlife without damaging the fragile habitat.

The warden also gets involved in environmental education programmes in local schools on Papay and Westray. This year, for example, children from the Pierowall School enjoyed a daytrip to the North Hill Reserve, where they were able to reinforce seabird projects from the classroom with amazingly close views of the real thing. This kind of first hand experience is invaluable and can inspire a lifelong enthusiasm for natural history.

Another important aspect of the job is survey and monitoring work, allowing a picture of population trends to be built over the years. Each summer an intensive programme of survey work is undertaken by the warden, with all breeding bird species on the reserve counted and mapped. Plant monitoring work is also important, and two fixed areas are monitored for Scottish primrose each year. In addition, more specialist surveys of the state of the whole plant community are undertaken by SNH.

The warden is responsible for general maintenance of the reserve infrastructure, including the stiles, signs and stone dykes. The former coastguard hut is now maintained as a visitor centre, with displays illustrating the fascinating natural history of the area, and offering a prominent observation point to enjoy the activity over the reserve.

Noup Cliffs Reserve

The spectacle of huge breeding colonies of seabirds jostling for space on the sheer cliffs at the north-west end of Westray is an unforgettable experience. The RSPB purchased this stretch of Old Red Sandstone cliffs in 1975, and continue to monitor and protect the nationally important breeding seabird colony, which they support.

The spectacular cliffs at Noup Head in Westray are a major nesting site for guillemots.

The summer warden maintains the signs around the reserve and ensures adequate safety measures are in place to protect visitors. A wide range of survey work is also undertaken outside the reserve around Westray. This year, these surveys have included breeding bird surveys at two fixed locations, tern monitoring, mute swan surveys, and peregrine falcon surveys.

The Noup Cliffs Reserve is just part of an eight kilometre section of cliffs along the west Westray coast. The scenery itself is breathtaking, with cliffs rising up to 76 metres high and many natural arches, stacks and caves. During the summer months, the cliffs reverberate with the sound of tens of thousands of guillemots and kittiwakes, with smaller numbers of razorbills, black guillemots, puffins and fulmars adding their voices to the overwhelming clamour. The cliffs support Orkney’s largest breeding seabird colony and, together with its spectacular scenery, the site is among the most impressive ‘seabird cities’ in Scotland.

The summer warden is responsible for undertaking full counts of the Noup Cliffs seabirds at five-year intervals. Up to 40,000 guillemots (around one-fifth of the whole Orkney population) nest here each year. Each female lays a single egg on a suitable narrow ledge and it is incubated in this precarious position until hatching. The egg is unusually elongated at one end, an adaptation that reduces the risk of the egg rolling off the ledge as it merely rotates around its point if bumped. The chicks are fed whole fish, carried back to the ‘nest’ in the adult’s beak, and after just 15 days the chick jumps off the ledge into the sea, still flightless and only one-third grown. The adult male locates his chick on the water by call and the two head out to sea, where they will remain together until mid-September as the chick learns vital survival skills. In addition to the cliff-nesting species, a colony of around 2,000 arctic terns nests on the land adjacent to the reserve.

Razorbills can be spotted on the cliffs of Papay and at Noup Head in Westray.

The Noup Cliffs Reserve in summer is a place buzzing with activity, as all the breeding seabirds take advantage of the long days to provide an almost constant supply of small fish to their rapidly growing offspring. For the visitor this is a multi-sensory experience, with the sight of thousands of whirring wings focused on their frantic activity, the sound of the rising chorus of voices – and that ever-present distinctive smell!

If this overview of North Hill and Noup Cliffs Reserves has inspired you to visit, the coastal walks provide an impressive reward at any time of year.

If you would like to witness the spectacular display of life in the seabird cities, the best time to visit is between late May and mid-July. Further information is available from the RSPB offices in Stromness (01856 850176 – all year) and on Papa Westray (01857 644240 – April-August).